AHA, BHA, & PHA Acids – Benefits, Contraindications, and How to Use Them Safely

2025-06-20
AHA, BHA, & PHA Acids – Benefits, Contraindications, and How to Use Them Safely

Ingredients Through a Biologist's Eye: AHA, BHA, & PHA Acids – Benefits, Contraindications, and How to Use Them Safely

In the world of conscious skincare, few ingredients generate as much excitement and apprehension as acids. AHA, BHA, and PHA are true superheroes in the fight for smooth, radiant, and healthy skin. Their effectiveness in renewing the epidermis, reducing imperfections, and diminishing wrinkles is confirmed by numerous scientific studies. At the same time, their powerful action makes many people approach them with caution, fearing irritation, dryness, or "burning" the skin. Is this fear justified?

Absolutely not, as long as we approach the topic wisely! In this comprehensive guide, we will look at acids through a biologist's eye – without marketing jargon, but with a solid dose of knowledge. We will explain how they work, what benefits they bring, who they are for, and who should be particularly careful. We'll show you how to safely incorporate them into your skincare routine to enjoy their spectacular effects without risk. It's time to demystify acids and make them your best allies on the path to your dream complexion!

What are AHA, BHA, and PHA Acids?

Let's start with the basics. Although they sound similar, these three groups of acids differ in their chemical structure, solubility, and consequently, their mode of action and purpose. Understanding these differences is the key to choosing the perfect product for your skin.

AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) – Masters of Surface Renewal

This is a group of water-soluble acids. They work mainly on the surface of the epidermis, loosening the bonds between dead skin cells (corneocytes), which facilitates their exfoliation. The result? Smooth, brightened, and refreshed skin. They also have strong moisturizing properties.

  • Examples: Glycolic acid (the strongest, has the smallest molecule), Lactic acid (moisturizing), Mandelic acid (milder, has antibacterial properties), Malic acid, Citric acid.
  • Action: Exfoliation, stimulation of collagen and elastin production, moisturization, improvement of skin texture, reduction of fine lines and discolouration.

BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) – Special Task Specialists

The main and most popular representative of this group is Salicylic Acid. Unlike AHAs, it is soluble in fats (lipids). This unique property allows it to penetrate through the sebum layer and deep into the pores, cleaning them from the inside out. This makes it an indispensable ally in the care of problematic skin.

  • Fat-Solubility: Ideal for oily, combination, blackhead-prone, and acne-prone skin.
  • Action: Cleanses and tightens pores, has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, regulates sebum production, and prevents the formation of imperfections.

PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids) – The Gentler Alternative for Sensitive Skin

PHA acids, such as Gluconolactone or Lactobionic Acid, are the "younger cousins" of AHAs. They have larger molecules, which means they penetrate the skin more slowly and superficially, significantly reducing the risk of irritation. They combine gentle exfoliating action with strong moisturizing and antioxidant properties. They are an excellent choice for very sensitive, couperose, rosacea-prone, or atopic dermatitis skin.

Benefits of Using Acids in Daily Skincare

Regular and skillful incorporation of acids into your skincare routine can bring truly spectacular effects that you will see with your own eyes:

  • Deep Pore Cleansing and Tightening: Salicylic acid (BHA) in particular is an expert at removing impurities and blackheads.
  • Evening Out Skin Tone: Acids help get rid of post-sun and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, restoring a uniform, healthy tone to the skin.
  • Reduction of Acne Scars: By stimulating cell renewal, acids help to shallow and smooth out minor scars.
  • Increased Effectiveness of Other Active Ingredients: Removing the layer of dead skin allows ingredients from serums or creams to penetrate deeper and work more effectively.
  • Stimulation of Cell Renewal and Anti-Aging Action: Acids (especially AHAs) "force" the skin to work, stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, which leads to improved firmness and reduced wrinkles.
  • Improved Hydration: Many acids, like lactic acid or hyaluronic acid (though a different category), have the ability to bind water in the epidermis.

How to Use Acids Safely? Know the Golden Rules

To fully harness the potential of acids and avoid undesirable effects, simply follow a few simple rules.

  • The "Less is More" Principle: Always start with low concentrations and low frequency (e.g., 1-2 times a week), gradually building up your skin's tolerance.
  • Evening Care: Acids are best used at night. Exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun, and at night they can work undisturbed, supporting natural regeneration processes.
  • Mandatory Use of SPF: This is an absolute must! Every morning, apply a high-factor sunscreen (SPF 30, preferably SPF 50) to protect your skin from UV radiation, discolouration, and photoaging. Without this step, the entire treatment is pointless and can do more harm than good.
  • Don't Mix Everything at Once: Avoid using acids in the same routine (e.g., the same evening) with retinol, other strong acids, or high concentrations of vitamin C. Give your skin time to regenerate.
  • Listen to Your Skin: Observe its reactions. A slight tingling at the beginning is normal, but if you experience severe burning, redness, or irritation, stop using the product and focus on regenerating your hydrolipidic barrier.

Contraindications and Precautions

Despite their enormous benefits, acids are not for everyone. Caution should be exercised, or they should be completely avoided in the case of:

  • Very sensitive skin, with active inflammation, wounds, or cold sores.
  • Pregnancy and breastfeeding: High concentrations of salicylic acid and retinoids should be particularly avoided. Always consult your doctor.
  • A fresh tan and immediately after cosmetic procedures (e.g., waxing, microdermabrasion).
  • Dermatological treatments (e.g., with isotretinoin).

Remember that over-exfoliation can damage the skin's hydrolipidic barrier, leading to dryness and hypersensitivity. The key is moderation and a balance between exfoliation and regeneration.

How to Choose an Acid for Your Skin Type?

  • Oily and Acne-Prone Skin: Your best friend is Salicylic Acid (BHA). Look for it in toners, serums, and cleansing gels.
  • Dry, Dull, Lacklustre Skin: Opt for AHAs, especially Lactic Acid or gentle Mandelic Acid, which will moisturize and brighten the complexion.
  • Mature Skin with Signs of Aging: The best results will come from Glycolic Acid (AHA), which strongly stimulates skin renewal.
  • Sensitive, Couperose-Prone Skin: Choose the gentlest options – PHAs (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid) or Mandelic Acid (AHA) in a low concentration.

In our store, you will find a wide range of products with acids from renowned Polish brands like Eveline Cosmetics or Bielenda. Here are a few of our suggestions to help you start your acid journey or enrich your current skincare routine.

Recommendation for Beginners: Bielenda Good Skin Acid Peel Micro-Exfoliating Correcting and Normalizing Tonic

Why is it worth it? This is the perfect product to start with! This toner from Bielenda combines gentle AHA and PHA acids that lightly exfoliate, smooth, and refresh the skin without the risk of severe irritation. It allows you to gradually acclimatize your skin to acids, preparing it for stronger formulas in the future. It's great for combination, oily, and blemish-prone skin.

Link: Bielenda Good Skin Acid Peel Tonic 200ml

Recommendation for Problematic Skin: Eveline 3 X Acid Therapy AHA, BHA, PHA Miracle Acid Peeling

Why is it worth it? This peel from Eveline Cosmetics is a true "miracle" for skin struggling with blackheads, enlarged pores, and uneven skin tone. The comprehensive combination of AHA, BHA, and PHA acids works in multiple dimensions – it cleanses pores, reduces imperfections, and smooths the skin's texture. Used regularly (e.g., once a week), it can work wonders.

Link: Eveline 3 X Acid Therapy Miracle Acid Peeling 75ml

Recommendation for Daily Care: Bielenda Good Skin Acid Peel Correcting and Normalizing Micro-Exfoliating Cream

Why is it worth it? If your skin tolerates acids well, this cream from the Acid Peel series by Bielenda will be a great addition to your evening routine. It contains AHA and PHA acids and niacinamide, so it not only gently exfoliates but also normalizes, moisturizes, and strengthens the skin barrier. Remember to use a high SPF during the day!

Link: Bielenda Good Skin Acid Peel Cream 50ml

Recommendation for the Advanced User: Eveline Face Therapy Professional Clean Shot 8% AHA/BHA/PHA Complex Smoothing Tonic-Peeling

Why is it worth it? Looking for something stronger? This tonic-peeling from Eveline Cosmetics with an 8% acid complex is for skin accustomed to exfoliation. It effectively renews the epidermis, reduces discolouration, and improves skin structure. Due to its higher concentration, introduce it into your routine cautiously.

Link: Eveline Face Therapy Professional Tonic-Peeling 8% 200ml

Other Noteworthy Acid Products:

Why is it worth it? The range of acid products is very broad and doesn't just cover the face! You can find specialized body peels, like the Bielenda Professional Acne-Free ProExpert Peeling Gel with 10% AHA and PHA, and even foot products, like the Apis Api-Podo Intense Softening Pearls with AHA and BHA acids. It's also worth paying attention to products that complement the treatment, such as the Bielenda Professional Acid Neutralizer (essential for professional treatments) or the Nourishing and Regenerating Mask after Exfoliation, which will soothe the skin after a treatment.

Links:

Summary: Acids – Your Ally on the Path to Beautiful Skin

AHA, BHA, and PHA acids are some of the most well-researched and effective active ingredients in cosmetics. You shouldn't be afraid of them, but rather learn to use them wisely. Remember that the key to success is regularity, skillfully selecting a product for your skin's needs, absolute sun protection, and... patience. The effects won't appear overnight, but a systematic, well-thought-out skincare routine will surely bring results that will delight you. Don't be afraid to test and observe your skin – with moderation and prudence, of course!

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About Acids

  • Can I use acids every day?
    It depends on the product and your skin's tolerance. Very gentle toners with a low concentration of acids can be used daily (always with SPF!). Stronger peels and serums should be used much less frequently, e.g., 1-3 times a week.
  • How long does it take to see results?
    Initial effects, like smoothness and radiance, are often visible after just a few uses. For reducing hyperpigmentation or fine lines, you'll need to wait longer – usually from 4 to 12 weeks of regular use, as this is how long a full epidermal renewal cycle takes.
  • Can I combine acids with vitamin C?
    It's complicated. Generally, it's not recommended to combine them in the same routine (e.g., vitamin C in the morning, acids in the evening), as both ingredients work at a low pH and can weaken each other's effectiveness or cause irritation. The safest approach is to use them alternately, e.g., every other evening.
  • What should I do if irritation occurs?
    Immediately stop using the acid product. Focus on regenerating and moisturizing your skin. Reach for cosmetics with ceramides, panthenol, Centella Asiatica (CICA), and other soothing ingredients. Return to acids only when the skin has fully calmed down, starting with a lower frequency.

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